Have you ever thought about building a wooden step stool yourself? Perhaps you’ve pictured a basic two pieces of wood with a platform across it . . . but let me “kick that up a notch” for you.

I’m going to encourage you to go outside the box a bit and build a DIY wood step stool that also doubles as a chair for a little one.

This DIY step stool is perfect if you have tall cabinets like we do in the kitchen, or if you want something fun for your children’s room that they can use to reach books and sit in.

What I love about this step stool is that it looks good for adult purposes, and then works in a nursery as well. It’s a pretty simple woodworking project, so let’s get started with the cut list.

CUT LIST

• Out of your 1/2″ thick MDF (you can organize the cuts as shown above on the two pieces):
  • Three (3) pieces – (1) 17”x 18” and (2) 13 1/2” x 18”
  • Six (6) pieces – (2) 5 1/2” x 8”, (2) 8” x 10 1/2”,  and (2) 8” x 16”
• Interior stair tread, cut two pieces: one (1) 11 1/2” x 17” and one (1) 6 1/2” x 17”

Tip: before gluing the stair treads in place we used a mineral oil with wax formula to protect the steps on the stool.

Your wooden step stool is ready to roll! As you can see, it’s a stool . . . . but then you flip it over . . .

And it’s a chair. For a small bum (not mine). Learn how to make it below:

Print

Wooden Step Stool Chair

Learn how to build a step stool with a modern look – that doubles as a chair! This DIY step stool can be painted any colors you like.

Course DIY Projects

Prep Time 30 minutes minutes

Cook Time 6 hours hours

Total Time 6 hours hours 30 minutes minutes

Servings 1 stool

Cost $30

Equipment

• Ruler
• Table Saw
• Drill with drill bits
• 1” wood boring drill bit
• Jigsaw
• Clamps
• Paintbrush(es)
• 1 paint roller
• 1 Round lid

Ingredients

• 2 pieces 1/2” thick 24” x 48” MDF
• 1 piece 1” thick interior stair tread
• Wood glue
• 1 can Paint and primer white
• Mineral oil with wax
• 1 120-grit sanding block
• Sandpaper
• Pencil

Instructions

• Using a table saw, cut three (3) pieces of 1/2” thick MDF – one (1) 17”x 18” and two (2) 13 1/2” x 18”.
  
• Using a table saw, cut six (6) pieces of 1/2” thick MDF – two (2) 5 1/2” x 8”, two (2) 8” x 10 1/2”,  and two (2) 8” x 16”.
  
• Using a table saw, cut two (2) pieces from your interior stair tread. Cut one (1) piece 11 1/2” x 17” and one (1) 6 1/2” x 17”.
  
• Use a round object to draw a round pencil mark the top front corners of your (2) 13 1/2” x 18” MDF pieces. These will be the side pieces of your stool.
  
• Use a jigsaw to round off the corners. Use the sanding block to smooth the edges.
  
• At the rounded corners, use a pencil to put two dots 1 1/2” from the top edge. One is at 1 3/4” from the front edge and the second is 4 3/4” in from the front edge.
  
• Using a 1” drill bit (and using the dot as center guides), drill two holes. Repeat with the other piece of the same size.
  
• Draw straight lines connecting the two round holes using your pencil and ruler. Use a jigsaw to cut on those lines and form the handle.
  
• Sand with 120-grit sandpaper to make the edges smooth.
  
• Take the 17”x 18” piece of MDF and glue the two pieces of 8”x 16” MDF to it. Glue one of the pieces flush with a 17″ side, leaving a 1/2” gap on both sides. Then give a 1” gap above that and glue the next board, leaving a 1/2” gap on each side and a 1” gap at the top.
  
• On each side, glue one piece of the 8″ x 10 1/2″ MDF flush with the bottom and 1/2″ from the non-handle side (the back of the stool). Then glue one piece of the 5 1/2″ x 8″ MDF 1 inch above the bottom piece you just glued down . . . leaving 1/2″ gap from the non-handle side (the back of the stool). Each side needs to be the reverse of the other.
  
• Prime and paint both side pieces as well as the back piece. I used paint and primer in one, with a roller.
  
• Glue the larger stair tread into the bottom 1” gap on your back piece. The stair tread should go edge to edge on the back piece.
  
• Glue your sides on and glue the top stair tread in place.
  
• Clamp, letting the glue set and dry for at least 24 hours before using.
  

Notes

CUT LIST

Out of your 1/2″ thick MDF (you can organize the cuts as shown above on the two pieces):

• Three (3) pieces – (1) 17”x 18” and (2) 13 1/2” x 18”
• Six (6) pieces – (2) 5 1/2” x 8”, (2) 8” x 10 1/2”,  and (2) 8” x 16”
• Interior stair tread, cut two pieces: one (1) 11 1/2” x 17” and one (1) 6 1/2” x 17”

Step 15: If you have felt, you can place it on the top and bottom to protect your wood floors – we’ll leave that up to you.

For more DIY furniture projects, click here. I’d also love for you to check out these other beginner projects:

Coffee Table • Coffee Table with Storage • Industrial Pipe Shelving • Lack Endtable Hack • Mirror Frame • Modern Headboard • Nolmyra Chair Hack • Outdoor Bench • Pallet Shelf • Platform Bed • Poster Hanger • Stacked Wood Bench • Table Lamp • Table Revamp with Vinyl • TV Riser • Wood Doormat

The post Make a 2-in-1 Step Stool Chair with These Simple Plans appeared first on DIY Candy.

Have you ever seen that incredible shrinking hose on late night television commercials? I’ve got a news flash for you . . . they don’t work.

We thought we’d found the answer to our problems and could get rid of a holder but alas, it wasn’t to be. So instead of coming up with ways to get rid of it, we decided instead to build our own out of pallet wood.

Yes – we embraced the idea of hose storage. But we also decided we could make it prettier than a regular hose caddy, and that we could make it out of pallet wood. Which after this table and this art, we had copious amounts of lying around.

Note this project doesn’t HAVE to be pallet wood. You can use any reclaimed wood you like. Pallet wood just happens to be pretty readily available.

Turns out we weren’t the first people to come up with this idea – we found this version and this version online. As any good DIYer does, they make their own version that works for them, and that’s exactly what we did! It’s perfect for holding a hose, and when it’s not in use, it looks so pretty.

As with any project, the supplies and instructions might seem complicated, but they really aren’t. Do a quick read through before you begin, especially because you may need to let the planed wood dry for a few weeks.

CUT LIST

Pallet Wood (all run through the planer)

• 24 pieces (various widths x 17″L x .5″ thick)
• 8 pieces (1.25”W x 20”L x .5” thick)
• 8 pieces (1.25”W x 15.5”L x .5” thick)
• 1 piece (4”W x 18.25”L x .5” thick)
• 2 pieces (24”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick)
• 2 pieces (22”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick)

2x2s

• 4 pieces – 15″ long
• 4 pieces – 17.5″ long
• 4 pieces – 15.5” long

I didn’t include plants in the supplies list because what you plant is up to you. Isn’t it wonderful? Here’s the back.

We are so happy with it! See the hose holder in motion here. Get the printable how to card below!

Print

DIY Garden Hose Holder

Learn how to make a hose storage planter out of pallet wood! This is unique because it has a planter box on top, and the hose stores in the bottom.

Course DIY Projects

Prep Time 2 hours hours

Cook Time 8 hours hours

Dry Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 12 hours hours

Servings 1 holder

Cost $15

Equipment

• Miter saw
• Planer
• Kreg Jig
• Nail gun with 3/4" nails
• Tin snips or wire cutters
• Drill with drill bits including doorknob attachment and screw bits
• Staple gun
• Scissors

Ingredients

• 2 Pallets
• 16 feet 2 x 2s or two 8 foot pieces
• 16 1 5/8" Wood screws
• Titebond III
• Thompson’s WaterSeal
• Galvanized hinges
• Small door latch
• 4 L-brackets brackets with screws
• 8 Right angle brackets with screws
• 1 roll Hardware cloth 2' x 5' roll
• 1 roll Landscaping fabric
• 32 1/2" Wood screws
• 30 2" Wood screws 24 to 30
• Metal handle
• Everbilt heavy-duty pads 1″ – 4

Instructions

• Gather your pallet wood. Using a planer, plane your pallet wood planks to a uniform thickness; approximately 1/2".

  IMPORTANT NOTE: after you plane the wood, we highly recommend letting it sit in a dry environment for a few weeks to dry. The wood WILL shrink (we learned from experience)!
  
• Use a miter saw to cut your planed pallet planks to 17” lengths. Lay them out – they will be varying widths, which is fine. The goal is to form four 17” x 20” panels with the planks. Do not attach anything yet.
  
• Make cross pieces for the top and bottom. Use a miter saw to cut some of the remaining pallet wood into the top and bottom panel trim pieces (1.25”W x 20”L x .5”T). You’ll need eight pieces total.
  
• Finish out the frame for each panel with additional side trim pieces. Use a miter saw to cut additional pallet wood your side panel trim pieces (1.25”W x 15.5”L x .5”T) – you’ll need eight pieces.
  
• Assemble all four frames with the wood pieces. Do this by laying out one frame face down as shown on the upper left. Add wood glue around the exterior, then place the pallet wood pieces face down on top to secure. Complete one panel and then finish the other three.
  
• Use a nail gun to reinforce the panels you just glued. Use 3/4" nails. Let the external panel pieces dry.
  
• Start cutting the internal frame pieces using 2x2s and a miter saw. Cut four pieces 15" long, four pieces 17.5" long, and four pieces 15.5" long.
  
• Grab two 15" pieces and two 17.5" pieces to start assembling the sides. Use a Kreg Jig to drill angled pilot holes on the inside back of the horizontal pieces for attaching screws.
  
• Make two of these. THEN use the four 15.5" pieces to attach the two frames, repeating the Kreg Jig instructions. This is the "skeleton" for the panels and the planter box on the top.
  
• On the front side of the planter, there is a piece behind the door. For now, use the miter saw to cut a piece of planed pallet wood to 4”Wx18.25”Lx.5”T.
  
• Cut the top frame that will go around the planter box area. Use a miter saw to cut four pieces of planed pallet wood: two pieces 24”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick and two pieces 22”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick. Cut a 45º angle at each end.
  
• Before assembly, stain all your components. Follow the instructions on your stain container for best application. Let dry.
  
• Start assembling the caddy. Decide which side is the front. On the other three sides, glue the panels on and then screw in with 2" wood screws. Let the wood glue dry.
  
• On the front, glue in the panel. Add a little nail gun action to the sides to secure. Let dry.
  
• Attach the hinges to the last panel. Attach these hinges to the hose holder.
  
• Attach the female part of the door latch to the top of the door opening in the center. Attach the male part of the door latch to the corresponding spot on the inside of the front door. Attempt opening and closing before securing down completely.`
  
• Attach a handle to the front of the door.
  
• Secure the remaining pieces of wood together with your four L-brackets (packets come with screws).

  Attach eight right angle brackets (two on each side) to the panels of your hose caddy as shown above on the left (brackets come with screws).
  
• Flip the entire holder over and center it on the frame held together by L-brackets. Screw the right angle brackets into that top frame.
  
• Cut two pieces of ¼” mesh hardware cloth into 18.25” x 20” sheets. Cut 2” out of all of the corners of one piece – this will be the inside bottom. The uncut piece will be the inside top.
  
• Take the piece of hardware cloth with the corners cut and place it in the inside bottom. Use ½” wood screws to attach it. Do the same with the uncut piece on the inside top.
  
• Use a doorknob hole jig to drill out a hole in the center of the lower back panel; this is where the hose will come through.
  
• On the bottom of the feet, use heavy duty plastic foot pads if it is going to sit on a driveway or other paved surface. It will also keep the feet from sitting directly in water.
  
• Take landscaping cloth, cut it, and staple it on top of the top piece of hardware cloth. Use two layers and be sure to cover the sides as well. The top is ready for planting.
  

Video

Notes

CUT LIST

Pallet Wood (all planed)

• 24 pieces (various widths x 17″L x .5″ thick)
• 8 pieces (1.25”W x 20”L x .5” thick)
• 8 pieces (1.25”W x 15.5”L x .5” thick)
• 1 piece (4”W x 18.25”L x .5” thick)
• 2 pieces (24”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick)
• 2 pieces (22”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick)

2x2s

• 4 pieces – 15″ long
• 4 pieces – 17.5″ long
• 4 pieces – 15.5” long

Step 1: If you need to learn how to dismantle a pallet, check out this video.

Step 9: Your final frame will look like this:This is your “skeleton” for the panels and the planter box on the top.

Let me know what you think of this project in the comments! Also check out some of our other DIYs:

Coffee Table with Storage • Industrial Pipe Shelving • Lack Endtable Hack • Mirror Frame • Modern Headboard • Nolmyra Chair Hack • Outdoor Bench • Outdoor Table • Pallet Shelf • Paver Planter • Platform Bed • Stacked Wood Bench • Table Revamp with Vinyl • TV Riser • Wood Doormat • Wood Step Stool Chair

The post Stylish DIY Garden Hose Holder with Pallet Wood Planter appeared first on DIY Candy.

Skills Required: Beginner. You need to know how to paint canvas and the basics of cross stitch to complete this project.

I’m so excited to share this project with you! It’s one of my favorite projects EVER. Do you have any favorite quotes or song lyrics that you love? You know, they make you happy when you read them on a page or hear them sung on the radio.

The Beatles songs are like that for me – my mom loved listening to them when I was young, and we used to sing the lyrics in the car on rides home from school.

To remind me of those fun times when I was little, I cross stitched on canvas with The Beatles lyrics “all you need is love.” If you have a phrase that bring a smile to your face, this project is fun (and easy!).

This canvas makes a sweet gift if you personalize it for the recipient. If you do what I did, this canvas makes a great Valentine’s Day decoration, too. Here’s what you’re going to need.

Gather These Supplies

• Printer and plain white paper
• 12” x 24” canvas
• FolkArt acrylic paint – Aqua (or color of your choice)
• Printed pattern of a quote or lyrics (here’s mine)
• Embroidery thread – for my pattern, one skein covered about three letters – I used four skeins of white and one skein each of a few shades of pink
• Embroidery needles
• Tool to puncture your canvas – I used a bead reamer like any of these
• Scissors
• Painter’s tape

REMEMBER TO REVERSE THE PATTERN if you use letters. You are taping the pattern to the back of the canvas, and you want it to show up correctly on the front.

ALSO IMPORTANT: every stretch canvas like I used has a wood frame. That means that you can’t make your pattern the full size of the canvas because you can’t stitch edge to edge.

You’ll need to consider the measurements inside of the wood frame as the size of your stitching area. If your canvas has a wood crossbar, that’s fine. Those are easy to stitch behind and around.

Get the printable how to card below:

Print

How to Cross Stitch on Canvas

Learn how to cross stitch on a cotton duck, stapled canvas from the craft store using embroidery floss.

Course Wall Art

Prep Time 15 minutes minutes

Cook Time 6 hours hours

Dry Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 8 hours hours 15 minutes minutes

Servings 1 canvas

Cost $12

Equipment

• Printer with plain white paper
• Scissors
• Tool to puncture your canvas bead reamer or awl
• Embroidery needles

Ingredients

• 1 12” x 24” canvas
• 2-3 bottles FolkArt acrylic paint Aqua or color of your choice
• Printed pattern of a quote or lyrics here’s mine
• 6 skeins Embroidery floss for my pattern one skein covered about three letters – I used four skeins of white and one skein each of a few shades of pink
• 1 roll Painter’s tape

Instructions

• Paint the canvas with acrylic paint. Give it three layers (completely cover it) and let dry.
  
• Print your cross-stitch pattern and tape the pages together . . . then tape the pattern inside the back of the canvas (in the center). Make sure that it fits within the wood frame, or you’ll need to print again until it fits.
  
• Use the bead reamer to puncture through the paper pattern and canvas from back to front, at each corner of every "X" on the pattern. If your bead reamer has a sharp tip, it’s very easy to punch through.
  
• Thread your embroidery floss through the needle and tie a knot (several times) at one end. Begin cross stitching your canvas, following your pattern exactly.
  
• This is how the back will look. When you finish a strand, tie off the floss by threading under several stitches. Then begin a new strand.
  
• When you get to the last word(or whatever word you would like to highlight), change the floss to another color. Finish in the same way.
  

Notes

Step 2: Here’s how I created my pattern. I searched for “cross-stitch letter patterns” online, and then used Excel to place x’s in the boxes to duplicate the letters. I then reversed the pattern (since I was taping to the back) and printed to fit. You might have to print a few times to make sure that your pattern fits your canvas – see my attached pattern document for a sample.

Step 3: Just be careful as you are punching– don’t rest the canvas on your leg!

Step 4: I did not remove individual threads from the floss strands – I just used the strand as a whole.

This is one of my favorite home decor projects of all time – it makes me happy every time I see it on the wall. Now you have to make one for yourself, right?

I’d love to hear what you think of this project in the comments. I’d also like it if you checked out these other cross stitch and wall projects:

DIY Pillow • Flower Sweater • Glue Art • Hand Embroidered Magnets • Magazine Collage Art • Mod Podge Canvas • Pom Pom Wall Hanging • Poster Hanger • Song Lyric Art • Wall Decals • Yarn Wall Art • Yarn Wall Hanging

The post Can You Cross Stitch on Canvas? Yes! Here’s How appeared first on DIY Candy.

Skills Required: Beginner. You’ll be doing a lot of painting – but it’s simple painting, so don’t worry if you’re not Van Gogh. This is a great starter project for getting handy with brushes.

Well, hello again!  It’s Jennifer of Brave New Home here to share a refresh project today. I love taking once loved items, breathing new life into them and falling in love with them all over again.

I have a set of nesting dolls that I received as a present from my mother when I was a little girl. There used to be five of them total but they somehow got into my four-year-old’s hands and two went missing.

A third got broken. These dolls have sentimental meaning to me and try as I might, I could never find a way to work them into my home decor. So rather than safely store them away, I decided to breathe new life into them to display and enjoy them.

For this project, you will need a set of wooden nesting dolls (you can buy unfinished wooden ones so you don’t have to paint over a design), primer, acrylic paints, and clear acrylic spray paint.

Looking at my images (which are actually larger than the dolls themselves), I see now that I could have mixed my paint a little more thoroughly. Having said that, it just adds to the uniqueness of the project!

I think these stacking dolls could work with everyday decor, but could also have a place in holiday decorating. Especially if you use Christmas colors.

Are you ready to get crafty? You can get the printed how to card for this project here:

Print

Paint Russian Nesting Dolls

Learn how to paint stacking dolls using modern colors! This is a really easy craft idea for holiday or beyond.

Course DIY Projects

Prep Time 15 minutes minutes

Cook Time 1 hour hour

Total Time 1 hour hour 15 minutes minutes

Servings 3 dolls

Cost $5

Equipment

• Pencil(s)
• Paintbrush(es)
• Sandpaper optional

Ingredients

• 1 set Wooden Nesting Dolls
• Acrylic paint
• Clear acrylic sealer
• Sharpie(s)

Instructions

• Sand the unfinished wood or painted surface if necessary. Remove sanding dust. Add a coat of primer. Let dry.
  
• I got some spray paint on the part of the wood where the top and bottom parts meet so I sanded it off. Any paint in this area will make it excessively difficult to open and close your nesting dolls, so you want to remove it.
  
• Pencil in the design directly on top of the spray painted areas.
  
• Paint the design with acrylic paint and let dry. Think about layering the paints for the neatest finish possible. This means you'll want to start with the paints that cover the largest area then work your way in.
  
• Draw in additional details and faces with the Sharpie to allow for more precision. You can also use paint pens.
  
• Seal all of the wood with clear acrylic sealer. Let dry for a while before using or stacking.
  

Video

Notes

Step 1: It felt wrong spray painting over a beautiful design, but I assured myself that in the end this would actually lead to these objects being better enjoyed.

Step 2: Because the wood is thin, you’ll want to be gentle when opening and closing your dolls.

Step 4: I had so much fun painting my dolls, I lost all track of time!

Here’s a back view of the dolls just so you can see:

I wish I would have included some hearts from the front view. They up the sweet factor just a bit more!

Let me know what you think of this project in the comments! For other painted projects we love, check out the following posts:

14K Gold Picture Frame • Bean Art Mosaics • Cactus Pot Painting • Kilim Basket • Painted Mugs • Trinket Dishes • Wooden Nativity Set

The post How to Paint Nesting Dolls the Easy Way appeared first on DIY Candy.