Have you ever thought about building a wooden step stool yourself? Perhaps you’ve pictured a basic two pieces of wood with a platform across it . . . but let me “kick that up a notch” for you.

I’m going to encourage you to go outside the box a bit and build a DIY wood step stool that also doubles as a chair for a little one.

This DIY step stool is perfect if you have tall cabinets like we do in the kitchen, or if you want something fun for your children’s room that they can use to reach books and sit in.

What I love about this step stool is that it looks good for adult purposes, and then works in a nursery as well. It’s a pretty simple woodworking project, so let’s get started with the cut list.

CUT LIST

• Out of your 1/2″ thick MDF (you can organize the cuts as shown above on the two pieces):
  • Three (3) pieces – (1) 17”x 18” and (2) 13 1/2” x 18”
  • Six (6) pieces – (2) 5 1/2” x 8”, (2) 8” x 10 1/2”,  and (2) 8” x 16”
• Interior stair tread, cut two pieces: one (1) 11 1/2” x 17” and one (1) 6 1/2” x 17”

Tip: before gluing the stair treads in place we used a mineral oil with wax formula to protect the steps on the stool.

Your wooden step stool is ready to roll! As you can see, it’s a stool . . . . but then you flip it over . . .

And it’s a chair. For a small bum (not mine). Learn how to make it below:

Print

Wooden Step Stool Chair

Learn how to build a step stool with a modern look – that doubles as a chair! This DIY step stool can be painted any colors you like.

Course DIY Projects

Prep Time 30 minutes minutes

Cook Time 6 hours hours

Total Time 6 hours hours 30 minutes minutes

Servings 1 stool

Cost $30

Equipment

• Ruler
• Table Saw
• Drill with drill bits
• 1” wood boring drill bit
• Jigsaw
• Clamps
• Paintbrush(es)
• 1 paint roller
• 1 Round lid

Ingredients

• 2 pieces 1/2” thick 24” x 48” MDF
• 1 piece 1” thick interior stair tread
• Wood glue
• 1 can Paint and primer white
• Mineral oil with wax
• 1 120-grit sanding block
• Sandpaper
• Pencil

Instructions

• Using a table saw, cut three (3) pieces of 1/2” thick MDF – one (1) 17”x 18” and two (2) 13 1/2” x 18”.
  
• Using a table saw, cut six (6) pieces of 1/2” thick MDF – two (2) 5 1/2” x 8”, two (2) 8” x 10 1/2”,  and two (2) 8” x 16”.
  
• Using a table saw, cut two (2) pieces from your interior stair tread. Cut one (1) piece 11 1/2” x 17” and one (1) 6 1/2” x 17”.
  
• Use a round object to draw a round pencil mark the top front corners of your (2) 13 1/2” x 18” MDF pieces. These will be the side pieces of your stool.
  
• Use a jigsaw to round off the corners. Use the sanding block to smooth the edges.
  
• At the rounded corners, use a pencil to put two dots 1 1/2” from the top edge. One is at 1 3/4” from the front edge and the second is 4 3/4” in from the front edge.
  
• Using a 1” drill bit (and using the dot as center guides), drill two holes. Repeat with the other piece of the same size.
  
• Draw straight lines connecting the two round holes using your pencil and ruler. Use a jigsaw to cut on those lines and form the handle.
  
• Sand with 120-grit sandpaper to make the edges smooth.
  
• Take the 17”x 18” piece of MDF and glue the two pieces of 8”x 16” MDF to it. Glue one of the pieces flush with a 17″ side, leaving a 1/2” gap on both sides. Then give a 1” gap above that and glue the next board, leaving a 1/2” gap on each side and a 1” gap at the top.
  
• On each side, glue one piece of the 8″ x 10 1/2″ MDF flush with the bottom and 1/2″ from the non-handle side (the back of the stool). Then glue one piece of the 5 1/2″ x 8″ MDF 1 inch above the bottom piece you just glued down . . . leaving 1/2″ gap from the non-handle side (the back of the stool). Each side needs to be the reverse of the other.
  
• Prime and paint both side pieces as well as the back piece. I used paint and primer in one, with a roller.
  
• Glue the larger stair tread into the bottom 1” gap on your back piece. The stair tread should go edge to edge on the back piece.
  
• Glue your sides on and glue the top stair tread in place.
  
• Clamp, letting the glue set and dry for at least 24 hours before using.
  

Notes

CUT LIST

Out of your 1/2″ thick MDF (you can organize the cuts as shown above on the two pieces):

• Three (3) pieces – (1) 17”x 18” and (2) 13 1/2” x 18”
• Six (6) pieces – (2) 5 1/2” x 8”, (2) 8” x 10 1/2”,  and (2) 8” x 16”
• Interior stair tread, cut two pieces: one (1) 11 1/2” x 17” and one (1) 6 1/2” x 17”

Step 15: If you have felt, you can place it on the top and bottom to protect your wood floors – we’ll leave that up to you.

For more DIY furniture projects, click here. I’d also love for you to check out these other beginner projects:

Coffee Table • Coffee Table with Storage • Industrial Pipe Shelving • Lack Endtable Hack • Mirror Frame • Modern Headboard • Nolmyra Chair Hack • Outdoor Bench • Pallet Shelf • Platform Bed • Poster Hanger • Stacked Wood Bench • Table Lamp • Table Revamp with Vinyl • TV Riser • Wood Doormat

The post Make a 2-in-1 Step Stool Chair with These Simple Plans appeared first on DIY Candy.

Skills Required: Beginner. These braided bracelets are extremely easy to make, and once you get the hang out of how to do it, you’ll be making a ton of them!

Duct tape isn’t just for home repairs – it’s an incredibly fun and versatile crafting material! These DIY duct tape bracelets prove just how creative you can get with a few rolls of colorful tape.

Unlike traditional friendship bracelets that require knotting or weaving, these are made with simple braiding techniques, making them perfect for beginners. Plus, they’re completely waterproof, so kids can wear them to the pool, beach, or sprinkler runs all summer long.

What makes this project extra cool? The endless customization! With the huge variety of patterns and colors available, you can mix and match designs to your heart’s content.

Want a neon-bright bracelet? Done. A sleek metallic look? Easy. A mix of fun patterns (which Duck Tape has)? Absolutely! They’re lightweight, flexible, and easy to slip/take on and off – no tricky clasps or knots.

This is the ultimate boredom-busting activity for tweens and teens, but adults will love them too. Once you make one, you won’t want to stop! These duct tape bracelets are guaranteed to be a hit.

I’ve given you a general guideline below for how long the strips should be cut for the circumference of a bracelet.

My wrists are on the smaller side for an adult, so the 9 inch round are like bangles on me. The good news is that if you don’t estimate correctly, you can always trim them down!

• 6 inches – 11 1/3 inch strips
• 7 inches – 13 1/4 inch strips
• 8 inches – 15 1/4 inch strips
• 9 inches – 17 inch strips
• 10 inches – 19 inch strips

Are you ready to learn how to make them? Keep reading!

Start with a 17 inch piece of Duck Tape (or the correct length using the chart I gave you above). Place it down on a cutting mat and trim.

Fold Both Sides of Tape to Create Strips

Peel the Duck Tape off of the cutting mat and fold in one side toward the middle. Having a cutting mat can really help you estimate the middle of the Duck Tape.

Fold the other side so that both pieces meet in the middle. If they slightly overlap, that’s totally fine. Repeat with two other colors of tape.

Clamp Tape to Table or Surface

Attach your Duck Tape to a table using a clamp, or you can even secure with another piece of tape. Yet another option – a clipboard! Just like a lot of kids use for friendship bracelets.

Braid the Tape

Begin braiding the Duck Tape, just as you would do a regular braid. You’ll want to braid rather tightly.

Cut Small Tape Strips and Finish Ends

Cut two 1/2 inch x 2 inch pieces of Duck Tape that are going to secure each end.

Place each of these pieces toward each end of the braid, and trim as shown.

This is what the end of your braided bracelet will look like.

Lay your bracelet out on the cutting mat. You’re going to cut more Duck Tape!

Cut Tape Piece to Close Ends

Cut a three inch piece of tape – you can layer it if you like so that your closures have a cool look! It’s really up to you!

Tape and Wear

Secure your braided bracelets by bringing the two ends together and wrapping the three inch piece around to secure. Not only does this secure your bracelet, but it makes it really easy to take on and off.

You can see that we tried these in a few colors. What you don’t know is that behind the scenes, we made a ton more with my niece later that day!

I wore these braided bracelets for several weeks. They are just so fun! I haven’t found someone yet that struggles to make them, either. If you’re looking for easy – this is your project.

What do you think of this project? Would you make them with your children? I’d love to hear in the comments! I’d also love for you to check out these other easy crafts:

Beaded Suncatchers • Bean Art Mosaics • Blow Painting • Borax Crystals • Bracelets with Perler Beads • Bubble Wrap Painting • Cat Bookmarks • Cloud Dough • Coffee Filter Flowers • Food Coloring Art • Fun Flower Pens • Glow in the Dark Playdough • Homemade Playdough • Jello Play Dough • Kinetic Sand • Minion Tote • Moon Sand • Paper Chain • Perler Beads • Sidewalk Chalk Paint • Spin Art • Tie Dye Headbands • Wine Cork Stamps

The post DIY Duct Tape Bracelets in Fun Colors for Kids appeared first on DIY Candy.

Have you ever seen that incredible shrinking hose on late night television commercials? I’ve got a news flash for you . . . they don’t work.

We thought we’d found the answer to our problems and could get rid of a holder but alas, it wasn’t to be. So instead of coming up with ways to get rid of it, we decided instead to build our own out of pallet wood.

Yes – we embraced the idea of hose storage. But we also decided we could make it prettier than a regular hose caddy, and that we could make it out of pallet wood. Which after this table and this art, we had copious amounts of lying around.

Note this project doesn’t HAVE to be pallet wood. You can use any reclaimed wood you like. Pallet wood just happens to be pretty readily available.

Turns out we weren’t the first people to come up with this idea – we found this version and this version online. As any good DIYer does, they make their own version that works for them, and that’s exactly what we did! It’s perfect for holding a hose, and when it’s not in use, it looks so pretty.

As with any project, the supplies and instructions might seem complicated, but they really aren’t. Do a quick read through before you begin, especially because you may need to let the planed wood dry for a few weeks.

CUT LIST

Pallet Wood (all run through the planer)

• 24 pieces (various widths x 17″L x .5″ thick)
• 8 pieces (1.25”W x 20”L x .5” thick)
• 8 pieces (1.25”W x 15.5”L x .5” thick)
• 1 piece (4”W x 18.25”L x .5” thick)
• 2 pieces (24”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick)
• 2 pieces (22”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick)

2x2s

• 4 pieces – 15″ long
• 4 pieces – 17.5″ long
• 4 pieces – 15.5” long

I didn’t include plants in the supplies list because what you plant is up to you. Isn’t it wonderful? Here’s the back.

We are so happy with it! See the hose holder in motion here. Get the printable how to card below!

Print

DIY Garden Hose Holder

Learn how to make a hose storage planter out of pallet wood! This is unique because it has a planter box on top, and the hose stores in the bottom.

Course DIY Projects

Prep Time 2 hours hours

Cook Time 8 hours hours

Dry Time 2 hours hours

Total Time 12 hours hours

Servings 1 holder

Cost $15

Equipment

• Miter saw
• Planer
• Kreg Jig
• Nail gun with 3/4" nails
• Tin snips or wire cutters
• Drill with drill bits including doorknob attachment and screw bits
• Staple gun
• Scissors

Ingredients

• 2 Pallets
• 16 feet 2 x 2s or two 8 foot pieces
• 16 1 5/8" Wood screws
• Titebond III
• Thompson’s WaterSeal
• Galvanized hinges
• Small door latch
• 4 L-brackets brackets with screws
• 8 Right angle brackets with screws
• 1 roll Hardware cloth 2' x 5' roll
• 1 roll Landscaping fabric
• 32 1/2" Wood screws
• 30 2" Wood screws 24 to 30
• Metal handle
• Everbilt heavy-duty pads 1″ – 4

Instructions

• Gather your pallet wood. Using a planer, plane your pallet wood planks to a uniform thickness; approximately 1/2".

  IMPORTANT NOTE: after you plane the wood, we highly recommend letting it sit in a dry environment for a few weeks to dry. The wood WILL shrink (we learned from experience)!
  
• Use a miter saw to cut your planed pallet planks to 17” lengths. Lay them out – they will be varying widths, which is fine. The goal is to form four 17” x 20” panels with the planks. Do not attach anything yet.
  
• Make cross pieces for the top and bottom. Use a miter saw to cut some of the remaining pallet wood into the top and bottom panel trim pieces (1.25”W x 20”L x .5”T). You’ll need eight pieces total.
  
• Finish out the frame for each panel with additional side trim pieces. Use a miter saw to cut additional pallet wood your side panel trim pieces (1.25”W x 15.5”L x .5”T) – you’ll need eight pieces.
  
• Assemble all four frames with the wood pieces. Do this by laying out one frame face down as shown on the upper left. Add wood glue around the exterior, then place the pallet wood pieces face down on top to secure. Complete one panel and then finish the other three.
  
• Use a nail gun to reinforce the panels you just glued. Use 3/4" nails. Let the external panel pieces dry.
  
• Start cutting the internal frame pieces using 2x2s and a miter saw. Cut four pieces 15" long, four pieces 17.5" long, and four pieces 15.5" long.
  
• Grab two 15" pieces and two 17.5" pieces to start assembling the sides. Use a Kreg Jig to drill angled pilot holes on the inside back of the horizontal pieces for attaching screws.
  
• Make two of these. THEN use the four 15.5" pieces to attach the two frames, repeating the Kreg Jig instructions. This is the "skeleton" for the panels and the planter box on the top.
  
• On the front side of the planter, there is a piece behind the door. For now, use the miter saw to cut a piece of planed pallet wood to 4”Wx18.25”Lx.5”T.
  
• Cut the top frame that will go around the planter box area. Use a miter saw to cut four pieces of planed pallet wood: two pieces 24”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick and two pieces 22”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick. Cut a 45º angle at each end.
  
• Before assembly, stain all your components. Follow the instructions on your stain container for best application. Let dry.
  
• Start assembling the caddy. Decide which side is the front. On the other three sides, glue the panels on and then screw in with 2" wood screws. Let the wood glue dry.
  
• On the front, glue in the panel. Add a little nail gun action to the sides to secure. Let dry.
  
• Attach the hinges to the last panel. Attach these hinges to the hose holder.
  
• Attach the female part of the door latch to the top of the door opening in the center. Attach the male part of the door latch to the corresponding spot on the inside of the front door. Attempt opening and closing before securing down completely.`
  
• Attach a handle to the front of the door.
  
• Secure the remaining pieces of wood together with your four L-brackets (packets come with screws).

  Attach eight right angle brackets (two on each side) to the panels of your hose caddy as shown above on the left (brackets come with screws).
  
• Flip the entire holder over and center it on the frame held together by L-brackets. Screw the right angle brackets into that top frame.
  
• Cut two pieces of ¼” mesh hardware cloth into 18.25” x 20” sheets. Cut 2” out of all of the corners of one piece – this will be the inside bottom. The uncut piece will be the inside top.
  
• Take the piece of hardware cloth with the corners cut and place it in the inside bottom. Use ½” wood screws to attach it. Do the same with the uncut piece on the inside top.
  
• Use a doorknob hole jig to drill out a hole in the center of the lower back panel; this is where the hose will come through.
  
• On the bottom of the feet, use heavy duty plastic foot pads if it is going to sit on a driveway or other paved surface. It will also keep the feet from sitting directly in water.
  
• Take landscaping cloth, cut it, and staple it on top of the top piece of hardware cloth. Use two layers and be sure to cover the sides as well. The top is ready for planting.
  

Video

Notes

CUT LIST

Pallet Wood (all planed)

• 24 pieces (various widths x 17″L x .5″ thick)
• 8 pieces (1.25”W x 20”L x .5” thick)
• 8 pieces (1.25”W x 15.5”L x .5” thick)
• 1 piece (4”W x 18.25”L x .5” thick)
• 2 pieces (24”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick)
• 2 pieces (22”L x 2.5”W x .5” thick)

2x2s

• 4 pieces – 15″ long
• 4 pieces – 17.5″ long
• 4 pieces – 15.5” long

Step 1: If you need to learn how to dismantle a pallet, check out this video.

Step 9: Your final frame will look like this:This is your “skeleton” for the panels and the planter box on the top.

Let me know what you think of this project in the comments! Also check out some of our other DIYs:

Coffee Table with Storage • Industrial Pipe Shelving • Lack Endtable Hack • Mirror Frame • Modern Headboard • Nolmyra Chair Hack • Outdoor Bench • Outdoor Table • Pallet Shelf • Paver Planter • Platform Bed • Stacked Wood Bench • Table Revamp with Vinyl • TV Riser • Wood Doormat • Wood Step Stool Chair

The post Stylish DIY Garden Hose Holder with Pallet Wood Planter appeared first on DIY Candy.

Don’t forget to scroll down to the bottom of the post to get a video of my tips for using colored pencils. I think they’ll come in hardy for you.

I’ve been coloring for nearly a year now! Adult coloring has been the rage for a while and I’m still in love with it. On any regular day you can find me coloring some free coloring pages or using my adult coloring books. It’s a really relaxing hobby, and I am so glad it’s one I picked up again.

Given that I’m so obsessed, I get asked some questions about it pretty frequently – and one of them is, “what are the best colored pencils?” Well, I’m here to help you!

Here are my top five picks for good colored pencils that are going to give you the results that you want. By “results” I mean great colors, easy to hold, easy to use, and don’t crumble on the page.

The great news? I’m picking them based on actual testing that I have done myself! None of these brands paid me or sent me anything for free. This is my 100% honest opinion.

Best Adult Coloring Pencils

I own all of these sets of pencils (and many more) and have tested them all. Out of the colored pencils I tried, these were the top five that I chose. Note that I prefer pencils that are wax based as opposed to oil based, so that’s what’s on the list.

These are my thoughts, and here is my ranking below from 1 – 5.

1. Crayola Twistables

(starts at $6 for a pack of 12) – my set was purchased online and has 30 colors included.

Pros: These pencils have a great color palette; no sharpening is required, you just twist! The color goes on smoothly and wax-like, somewhere in between a crayon and a pencil. I love the feel.

Cons: There are no labels on the colors! You don’t think labeling colors is important until you don’t have them – some of the colors look the same so it was hard for me to remember what I had used.

Overall: I’m pretty much in love with these pencils. I’m going to be honest – I love two big things about them: 1) how the color applies to the page and how smooth it is; and 2) you don’t have to sharpen them.

Now having said that, sometimes it’s hard to get a sharp tip on them for detail areas. But to me, if you want a nice set for a reasonable price, this is a great option.

2. Pentel Arts Color Pencils

(around $3 to start) – this set includes 24 colored pencils; I believe this is the only size set you can buy from them.

Pros: The pencil tubes are hexagons which make them easy to hold; the colors go on smoothly and waxy just like I love; they are easy to blend.

Cons: The only bad thing I can say is that there aren’t enough colors! I wish Pentel would have made some larger sets too.

Overall: LOVE this set! The price is right. Your only limitation is going to be the colors available. So whether or not I’d recommend it depends on your color needs.

I like it better than the more inexpensive sets I’ve tried – I’m just sad I can’t get it in a larger range of colors or this would be my go-to set!

3. Prismacolor Premier Colored Pencils

(starting at around $19.99) – Prismacolor are artist grade pencils so they are not cheap – but I opted for the 72-count set anyway. These come in a variety of sizes.

Pros: What can I say about Prismacolors except that they are amazing? High quality, easy to layer, go on smoothly, lays down vibrant color . . . they go over markers well and markers go over the top of them well.

Cons: To me Prismacolors are like the Posca paint markers of the pencil world. They are expensive. Having said that, the quality is there! I did feel like I had to buy a pretty large set to get all of the colors I wanted.

Overall: It’s hard to complain about Prismacolors – they are truly the best colored pencils especially when it comes to adult coloring. The price is really the only thing that is daunting.

In terms of pencils, these are the best quality as far as I’m concerned. I have a price limit on what I’m willing to spend for pencils regularly, so I do have a set of these, but I don’t use them all the time!

4. Koh-I-Noor Tri-Tone

($15.59 and up) – what is a Tri-Tone pencil? I didn’t have any idea when I purchased a set of 12! You can also purchase these adult colored pencils in a set of 24.

Pros: Makes VERY cool colors – so fun to experiment with! Includes a blending pencil.

Cons: You’ll still need a basic set with basic colors other than this set because these are all literally as they are described – three colors in each pencil tip.

Overall: Man, I really love these. If you get seriously into adult coloring and have a birthday or other holiday coming up, ask for the Tri-Tones. They are THAT fun. Color effects like no other . . . but they can’t be your only set (unless you’re just crazy with your coloring!).

5. Sargent Art Colored Pencils

($6.99 for 12 and up) – my colored pencils set included 24 pencils for a great price!

Pros: The colors are vibrant; the pencils are easy to hold; great value for number of pencils.

Cons: Hardly any! There’s a bit of dust that comes off the pencil but unlike some of the others, it was easy to wipe away without getting any smears.

Overall: In terms of the wood type that you have to sharpen, these pencils were my favorite! They were actually recommended to me by someone on Instagram who said she had arthritis and these were comfortable for her, so I had to purchase. I agree; they are easy to hold. You can’t go wrong with the Sargent adult coloring pencils.

So these are my picks for the best pencils for adult coloring books. Have you tried any of them? What are your faves? I’d love to know in the comments!

Ready for a video with my tips for using color pencils? Just press “play” in the center of the video in this post! Also don’t forget to check out my other articles about adult coloring:

• The Best Adult Coloring Apps (Including Free!)
• Easy Shrinky Dink Keychain with Coloring Pages

The post The Best Colored Pencils for Adult Coloring: Tested and Reviewed appeared first on DIY Candy.